Friday, January 29, 2010

Up & Running

Woo.  My computer is getting fixed.  I am borrowing a friends laptop.  What would you do, if I sang out of tune/I will try not to sing out of key. 

the salad I'm eating right now:

rounds of pink grapefruit
rounds of roasted beets
arugula

each layer seasoned with olive oil, squeeze of lemon to taste, salt & pepper to taste (this is when you use fleur de sel


sprinkle with goat cheese

sprinkle with whatever else your heart desires
Your heart should desire things like nuts, fancypants or plain, dried fruits, other fresh fruit, herbs, crushed toasted fennel seeds, crushed toasted flax seeds for that matter (woo!  omega-3)!

If you don't have arugula, use any leafy green.  I like them on the bitter side (shocking) a la frisée, raddichio, endive, but conversely the subtle poetry of butter lettuce, mizuna, lamb's lettuce work just as well. 

The goat cheese can be any sort of cheese but I like the creamy tangy thing, plus my people are not good with dairy.  Blue cheese, ricotta salata, anything crumbly and creamy and tangy.

Feel free to add an avocado, thin-sliced red onion, olives, hearts of palm, proscuitto, shaved parmesan, jumbo lump crab meat, a seared scallop (a dollop of créme fraiche, perhaps caviar to replace the cheese element), a drizzle of walnut, hazelnut, truffle oil...  it can be as fancy or as rustic as you like it. 

Monday, January 18, 2010

Braised Chicken Thighs in Vinegar Sauce

Braised chicken thighs are delicious, and super easy.  I'm not one to watch the stove; if I do it is to figure out how best to fit my head in the oven (if reading this blog were a drinking game, you take a shot right now and every other time I mention sticking my head in the oven). 

I find braising to be the most forgiving method of cooking protein, and the best way to infuse the protein with flavor from the get-go.  Braising meat tenderizes cheaper cuts and adds flavor to less flavorful cuts.  Think of it as stew.  Basically, it's the shit and you can't fuck it up.

Regarding white meat, I honestly don't see any reason to eat white meat unless you are a child or have the palate of one.  The exceptions here are when the white meat is roasted or brined, or both, but that is a separate entry (my philosophy holds true with pork too.  brine that shit.  pig don't taste as good as it used to).  If I feel like making chicken at home, it will most likely be using this method, using chicken thighs, boneless/skinless:
Season protein with salt and pepper on both sides.  Brown on both sides over medium-high heat in a pan with a tight-fitting lid with a little bit of fat (olive oil, butter, goose fat, bacon fat, whatever you feel like), remove from pan.  turn heat down, add sauté ingredients and sauté, deglaze pan with liquid (stock, water, wine, whatever you feel like), bring to boil, add protein back to pan, cover, turn heat to low, and let it do its magic for about an hour (you want enough braising liquid to almost cover the protein).  After an hour or so, take the protein out, cover, and reduce braising liquid till it's the consistency you want (till it looks like sauce), taste, adjust seasoning, and plate. 
Tonight I wanted something really homey and delicious.  I remembered a recipe from Gourmet (RIP) I made a couple years ago for chicken with vinegar sauce.  Apparently vinegar sauce was a big haute cuisine trend back in the day (60s?  70s?) but really all it tastes like is fancy sweet and sour pork OR delicious, tangy ketchup.  After browning the chicken, I sautéed  a small dice of carrot and garlic (I didn't have onions or shallots or I would have used that too, maybe even some ginger and fresh chilies) till soft, added some tomato paste and a bit of harissa (could just as easily be Tabasco® or Siracha or red chili flake) for another minute, deglazed pan with some red wine, balsamic vinegar, and a bit of white vinegar (just plain ol' nasty white vinegar, like the kind you clean with),  reduced it a lil' bit, added chicken stock, some agave (or sugar, or honey, or maple syrup).  After it's boiling return chicken parts to pan, cover, lower heat, and simmer for an hour.  Pull chicken out.  Reduce liquid in pan till it's saucy.  Season to taste (I always, ALWAYS add a tiny bit of acid to whatever I am cooking immediately before serving.  It really does brighten the flavors)  Serve.   

I ate the chicken, as I do most things at home, over white short-grain rice (ie Japanese rice.  Japanese do not eat brown rice.  Brown rice is for poor people.  Period.  I don't give a fuck about health benefits.  White rice.  Also, new studies are showing that white flour, white rice, etc. contain another beneficial kind of fiber that is more of a thickener than a mover-througher, which makes me feel better.  It's like Jell-O®).

Delicious.  Sweet, sour, salty, mmm.  I don't know why we as a culture don't embrace that combo more.  Sweet, sour, salty=good.  This recipe is also really similar to a traditional Jamaican chicken preparation the name of which is escaping me, and I lost my Jamaican cookbook.  Point being, this is comfort food, whichever culture you are indulging in.